RSVP's Alaskan Adventure: Days 5 - 7

Story and video by Michael Anthony; Photos in order: Michael Anthony (3); Getty (1)

If the ship is a-rockin'…get those anti-nausea pills ready!

Yes, on the 5th official day of RSVP's Alaskan cruise (from which I've been reporting) we awoke to hurricane force winds. Standing on our balcony, holding on for near-dear life, we watched as the captain tried to tender in (or pull into harbor, in landlubber-language). Literally 4 attempts ensued before the commander made an announcement: "I regret to inform you that we will not be docking in Sitka. Instead, you will be enjoying another day at sea."

On one hand, this was disappointing. Sitka is a cultural city that my world traveler friends have told me is definitely worth seeing; it's a rural yet refined collective with heavy native and Russian influences. But, at 60-knots, docking was out of the question. So enjoy the boat, we did!

Even five days in, it's shocking how many things were yet to be discovered on this 12-story ship. Aunt Ros spent the entire day in the "Crow's Nest" library, grilling the on-staff Alaskan expert about everything and anything wilderness-related. Helen and the Uncles took to the ship's culinary school -- culinary school! David, as he usually does, ran off to the gym and spa for some mind, body and soul respite. I jumped in on my first-ever slots tournament. (Second place ain’t bad for an amateur, now is it?)

At night, the cruise ship party scene commenced. Unlike other gay cruise lines, RSVP has those gay good-time vibes rather than that "party atmosphere" that many LGBTQ travelers would prefer to avoid when relaxing. There are parties nightly (like Day Five’s "leather-themed bonanza"), but this Alaskan Adventure boasted all of the fun with none of the attitude; even the great-aunts took to the dance floor and had a blast.

Day Six brought us to Ketchikan, a small Alaskan port town. While the uncles took an historic nature walk and Helen went off to perform in a Native tribe dancing ritual, David and I sated our inner-adventure

seekers and spent the afternoon zip-lining through the city’s rainforest (the second biggest in the world, only second to the Amazon). What can I say about taking a 400 foot nosedive through the misty woodland with nothing more than a mere rope harness as your savior? Priceless!

The evening of Day Seven dropped us off in the heart of Victoria, British Columbia, Canada. We arrived by bus to the world-famous Butchart Gardens just in time for a fireworks spectacular for which clearly no expense was spared.

We also got a quick tour of the Gardens themselves before being bustled back to the Westerdam. Now I’m not a big "flower and fountain guy," but something about outdoor floral design done right really makes a man appreciate the world around him; it was absolutely stunning, whether you’re a "stop and smell the roses" kind of traveler or not.

Of course, David and I rocked out the night as hard as we could; refusing to admit that our vaca-y had come to an end. The verdict? From 28-to-70-some-years-old, each and every one of us enjoyed a five-star time. It's hard not to enjoy any openly-gay cruise, but when it’s done in a setting as beautiful as the picturesque Alaskan coastline, it's truly memorable. An expensive memory, yes, but worth every pretty penny.

Writer Michael Anthony, contributing from aboard RSVP's Alaskan cruise

RSVP's Alaskan Adventure: Days 3 + 4

Story and video by Michael Anthony. Images in order: Getty; Michael Anthony; Getty

Although Day Three of RSVP's Alaskan Adventure cruise was technically a "day at sea," we sailed through the indescribably beautiful Glacier Bay and tendered for a bit.

Here, we saw our first glacier of the trip (and of my entire life!), a family of passing whales (who followed alongside our ship and surfaced no less than a dozen times) and miles of gorgeous, untouched-by-man shoreline.

Aunt Ros and Uncle Bill had a field day, snapping picture after picture. Seeing sights like this in movies, on nature flip calendars and in National Geographic specials can be desensitizing, but actually beholding beauty like this in real life is in its own category entirely.

On this cruise, which I’ve never experienced on any other cruise before, they tugboat in resident experts and naturalists to discuss the culture and lay of the land as we pass it. Today’s speaker was Alaska’s one and only gay park ranger; Aunt Helen twisted my arm into attending the lecture, and I’m so glad that I tagged along.

Not only did he give the standard "that’s a glacier, over there is a mountain goat" speech, but he discussed the trials and tribulations of finding success and happiness in such a (stereotypically) hetero-centric environment. It was pretty moving and definitely inspiring.

Day Four took us to Juneau, Alaska's capital (interesting fact: the city is only accessible via passenger plane and boat; not a single road is paved in or out). We spent the first half of the day shopping at the local port: trinkets, furs, Russian cultural items (surprisingly frequent here) and jewelry native to the area.

But the best part of our capital visit (and of the trip to date!) was the one-hour helicopter flight that the 'family' and I took through the local wilderness. (See the clip above for a taste of the majestic beauty that we encountered.) Bears, flora and fauna abounded, as well as glaciers (one which is near the size of Rhode Island at times of the year).

Our pilot, a rough and tumble yet strikingly beautiful local woman, even maneuvered a touch-down on a remote glacier; for nearly 20 minutes, we got to hike and trek around the area, harsh and uninhabitable yet entrancing. The tour cost us well over $500 for four, but was well, well worth it.

Tomorrow, onto the city of Sitka, with a slew of other RSVP-promised surprises in store.

Writer Michael Anthony, contributing from aboard RSVP's Alaskan cruise

Designing Helsinki

Story: Nikko Lencek-Inagaki; Photos below: Courtesy Companies

Although Helsinki's gay nightlife, restaurants and cultural offerings are well-worth the trip on their own -- at least in summer! -- the city is also an emerging design capital, marked by its current finalist bid to be 2012's World Design Capital.

There are also plans for a new design university to accommodate all the talented young Finns who are building on older international A-listers like Eero Aarnio -- remember this chair? -- and Alvar Aalto.

Of course, the best place to see chic new Finnish design work -- famously simple, eco-friendly and functional, but still statement-worthy -- is at the annual international design fair.

Barring that, downtown Helsinki's Design Forum combines showroom, shop and café into a stylish multi-use space where you can see (and purchase) work by both established and University-fresh designers.

At the top of the rising star list (look for his watch work with Issey Miyake) is Harri Koskinen, whose elegant but pleasantly whimsical glasswork for Iittala is simply beautiful. His furniture can be harder to find -- and transport -- but will be online soon.

Dotting Helsinki's Design District, you'll also find a handful of cool boutiques stocking the wearable version of new Finnish design. IvanaHelsinki, for example, the first label invited to Paris' main catwalk, has their flagship womenswear shop in the heart of the neighborhood. Beam and Tiger are the best places to start for menswear by Scandinavian designers, but neither carry Finnish labels. A few can be found, along with everything else one needs in life, at Stockmann, Helsinki's massive department store.

For something funkier -- but still very Finnish -- check out Secco, a small shop on Fredrikinkatu that specializes in recycled streetwear and accessories by forty or so local designers.

After a long day of the new Finland, unwind with one of the culture's oldest traditions: the dry sauna. A beautiful, central sauna -- and, built in 1926, perhaps Helsinki's oldest -- can be found at Yrjönkatu alongside a huge pool and a Turkish steam room. Check for mens' and womens' days and be comfortable sweating nude with a bunch of Finnish men of all ages.

Nikko will be reporting from his travels in Helsinki, Stockholm, Paris and Berlin this month. If you have a tip on a new place he should visit, e-mail him here.

Sunny, summery Helsinki

Story and photos by Nikko Lencek-Inagaki

Although Helsinki's weekend gay nightlife might keep you up (and sleeping in) late, the days in between can afford a useful opportunity for sight-seeing and sampling the amazing restaurants that have popped up in the last few years.

The best way to spend a morning is at the open-air produce, knick-knack, flower and antique markets. They're impromptu, weather-dependant affairs but thankfully dependable if you have a clear-skied day to bring the local farmers, fishermen and attic-cleaners out in force.

Just west of the Design District, at the end of Boulevardi street, you can unearth occasional gems at the lively, ragtag flea market known as Hietalahti. The main show, though, is the adjacent indoor antique market where you can pick up anything from a 19th century English birdcage to vintage Iittala glassware.

 Nearby, No. 9 is a relaxing gay-friendly café that serves a popular, tasty lunch. The Atkins salad is recommended, but make sure you want a whole steak with your greens.

Catering more to souvenir needs is Kauppatori market, located at the small harbor at the end of the Esplanade. Weekends are packed with stalls, but you'll find deliciously fresh seasonal produce, local fish and a variety of kitschy Lapland Reindeer-based handicrafts every day.

From Kauppatori, it's easy to take an afternoon trip to Suomenlinna, a small UNESCO heritage-classified island 15 minutes from the market by hourly ferries. This hilly former fortress has plenty of history -- some Finnish, some Swedish, some Russian -- but its chief appeal is picnic-ing amid grassy knolls and sea breezes. Cafés dot Suomenlinna, in case you don't port around lunch yourself, and there's a cute shop selling works by the Finnish artists who inhabit it if you need a souvenir.

Back on the mainland, don’t miss Kiasma, Helsinki's Museum of Contemporary Art. The institution's  stunning permanent collection of Scandinavian and Nordic artists is full of clever, often funny and surprisingly edgy work -- like this neon, flaccid Darth Vader.

To 'finnish' -- pun! -- off the day, I recommend Juuri, a five-year old restaurant run by two women chefs who are as warm with their patrons as they are talented in their profession. Mid-range by price thanks to their stellar seasonal 'Sapas' or tapas menu, Juury is decidedly top tier by taste.

Modern riffs on traditional Finnish cuisines combined with intimate, unpretentious décor make Juuri popular with small dinner parties and dates alike. Dress decently, make a reservation and take the chefs' recommendations -- it's a dinner you won't regret.

Nikko will be reporting from his travels in Helsinki, Stockholm, Paris and Berlin this month. If you have a tip on a new place he should visit, e-mail him here.

Helsinki by Night

When summer inches north in June to Finland, put sleigh-bells, reindeer and naked ice swimming out of your mind. When the Nordic summer sun rises it stays out exhilaratingly late, a formula Finns seem to mimic with their nightlife.

Long hours of daylight notwithstanding, pack a raincoat! And, if you are in Helsinki, make sure it is stylish. The seaside capital, long a cozy alternative to neighboring, jet set Stockholm, is shedding its  famously shy exterior and seeking deserved attention for its top notch design industry, chic hotels and lounges, and unpretentious -- but surprisingly edgy -- art.

 Located in the heart of the city’s Design District, the Klaus K hotel (where I've been staying this past weekend) is a good example of this new Finnish face. Exceedingly hip but pleasantly friendly, this design hotel includes two restaurants -- one Italian (Toscanini) and one more traditionally Finnish (Ilmatar) -- alongside Ahjo, a cool, all-white lounge with a streetside terrace and an intimate, similarly high-design club in back.

Late into Saturday night, well-heeled young Finns in designer suits and dresses poured out of taxis and  into Ahjo's live, pounding house. Thankfully, I couldn't hear a thing from my room when I, too, finally called it a night.

A small city, it still helps to stay near Helsinki's center and -- if you're going to frequent the gay nightlife -- as close to the Design District as possible. Around the corner from three of the city's most popular gay spots, Klaus K is hard to beat for this.

Two blocks south of the hotel is Hugo's Room , Helsinki's newest gay lounge. Impeccably cool -- although somewhat pricey -- Hugo's Room is great for dressing up, claiming a window-side booth and watching the busy street outside.

Crowded by 10pm (especially on weekends), folks tend to drift out of Hugo's Room by midnight, either  going directly across the street to Don't Tell Mama -- DTM for short -- or stopping by Hercules first, a dance club one block north of the Klaus K hotel. None of these venues charge a cover, but entry is supposedly restricted by age -- 20 at DTM, 22 at Hugo's Room and 24 at Hercules. Local Finns, however assure me that no reasonably-aged young man is denied entry.

By 1 am, the crowd really picks up at Hercules, a fun and well laid-out club that spins roaring pop remixes and dance tracks. There's a spacious back lounge where conversations can actually be heard, too. Until recently, when the city closed them all, Hercules maintained an appreciated dark room, but its absence hasn't dampened the club's popularity or the mixed patrons' forwardness!

DTM is Helsinki's most iconic gay place. A friendly café with an outdoor patio by day, a bar by evening, and a busy club later on, DTM is more or less open 24 hours a day. Locals grumble a bit that it's cool factor, multiple dance floors and good music have begun drawing a sizeable straight population, but all agree that it is still the place to be seen, to bring your female friends, to dance all night, or just to have a quiet afternoon coffee.

Nikko will be reporting from his travels in Helsinki, Stockholm, Paris and Berlin this month. If you have a tip on a new place he should visit, e-mail him here.

Correspondents: Shanghai Shenanigans

Story and Photos by Michael Seibert

Want to see lots of concrete, get lost in a taxi, see elderly men waltzing and ingest more smoke than your eyes or lungs can handle? Visit Shanghai! In early June, Shanghai also celebrated its first Pride event, so there's even a growing gay reason to visit. This Pride was the largest gay and lesbian community event on the Chinese mainland ever. Although it was mildly dampened by police involvement, it is still considered a major success and milestone.

My recent trip started off with a burning desire to witness the Lai Lai Dance Hall (2/F 235 An-guo Road, near Zhou-jia-zui Road; Hong-kou District), which I luckily found with the help of the taxi driver. Once you find the building, you have to dart through a Karaoke Lounge -- there was only one singer who was her own audience at the time -- and up some dingy steps to get to the Dance Hall.

Emerging from the entrance as the only white guy in the place, I found both young and old gay Chinese men waltzing with each other as multi-colored lights flashed out of sync around them. One, almost bouncing through his dance steps, fanned himself and his overly myopic eyeglasses with a fabulous black lace fan.

It was almost like a high school dance, except that the guys only danced to the slow songs -- translating them into waltzes as they went. When any other song came on, they returned to their tables and thermoses of hot tea. at their tables. If you want to witness a different groove, you will love this place. You won't soon forget the smiling faces on these potentially-married, elderly men enjoying themselves for a short 2 hours from 7-9 on a Friday, Saturday or Sunday night with quick 'waltz' with another man.

For a more familiar scene. try Shanghai Studio (1950 Huai-hai Zhong Road, No. 4, near Xing-guo Road; Xu-hui District). But beware, this old bomb shelter is so smoky that your lungs will ache the next day. If you can stand it, they have a 100 RMB all you can drink night on Thursday.

If you're in the area, Eddy’s Bar (1877 Huai-hai Zhong Road, near Tian-ping Road; Xu-hui District) is a must -- better ventilation, small, cozy and great on any night. And if you are a bear, there's a place called Bo Bo’s for you. remember, though, that YOU are a “PANDA” in China. The locals informed me that it is rare to find a "Panda," so you may have to do some hunting if you want your own.

For club dancing with cute boys, visit the popular disco, D2 (505 Zhong Shan Road South, near Fu Xin Road; Huang-pu District), in Pudong on a packed Saturday, but skip Friday.

A short bus ride to Zhujiajiao (make sure to take the fast bus, not the local), the "Chinese Venice," is worth the half-day trip. Sip on some hot tea and shell peanuts along the waterway and then head back to Shanghai for the evening fun.

On a final note, visit The Bund -- the old colonial neighborhood -- in the morning if you can get up really early and watch the women dance with each other with Pudong in the background.

Dr. Michael Seibert is part of Out Traveler.com's international team of Correspondents, reporting from around the world on items of LGBT travel interest. If you would like to become a Correspondent, e-mail us here after checking out our guidelines.

Britain is Burning to Get to Know You

Photos courtesy of Howeird (top); VisitLondon (bottom)

Gay travelers have been making London a favorite spot for decades, and now the UK is proclaiming that they love us back. From the “gay beach” to Grace Jones and Lilly Allen performing for free to fancy cocktails at the Somerset House, all tastes will be pleased here. The recently launched, “Only in LGBT London” campaign celebrates the colorful nightlife and customs of queer Britain and even offers a competition. Check out their new video clips every week, summarizing the steamy scene in Soho (on their side of the pond) and beyond.

The campaign not only celebrates diversity, but also hopes to stimulate your senses. On July 4 London’s pride festival kicked off a summer of celebrations to come across the UK. The cherry on top is the discounts you’ll receive thanks an exchange rate much more favorable to American dollar holders this year than last. Enjoy the gayer sides of England, Scotland and Wales with any of the following exciting events:

 LONDON
 Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre (April 23-Oct 10)
 Take a tour of the famous rebuilt theater or see a show at the venue Sam Wannamaker brought back to life. 

 Regents Park Open Air Theatre (May 25-Sept 12)
 Enjoy the view from your seat even before first act begins at this beautiful outdoor amphitheater. Enjoy performances from Hello Dolly! to The Importance of Being Earnest.

The National Theatre Goes Outdoors

Composed of three smaller theaters, watch a contemporary play, under the stars for the summer only, just steps away from the London Eye.

ENGLAND
Manchester Pride (August 21-31)
One of UK’s premier gay event, features a flamboyant celebration of lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender life through a series of more than 40 events covering art, film, debate and entertainment, as well as other fantastic parties. 

The Festival of History (July 25-26)
With over 50 reenactments a day, set on the grounds of Kelmarsh Hall in Northamptonshire, and elaborate costumes galore you’ll feel taken back in time and maybe even a queen for a day. 

14th Leeds Shakespeare Festival (July-August 2009)
Known for it’s reputable theater company, see A Midsummer Night's Dream and Much Ado About Nothing set in natural surroundings for night of laughter. 

SCOTLAND
The Highland Games (Scotland, Summer 2009)
Celebrate Scottish culture by clapping it up for participants in the tug-o-war, dancing competitions, and of course concerts of bagpipes held on castle grounds.

Whole in One Golf Exhibition (Rozelle Estate, Ayrshire, June 8-August 31)
What better place to watch golfers go at it? In between holes, take in some rare artifacts displaying the history of the sport.

Return to the Ridings (June 1 - August 8)
Witness a tradition brought back to life, as the streets of Scotland are filled with horses, spreading out to check the borders. Background music is provided in the way of culturally rooted tunes.

T in the Park (July 9 - 12)
From The Killers to Lady Gaga, be a part of Scotland’s Bonaroo. Their biggest outdoor music festival held in Balado over three days.

WALES
Cardiff International Food & Drink Festival (July 10 - 12)
Over the top entertainment, world class cuisine and strange art exhibits (an underwater sound gallery) make for a unique experience to say the least.

National Eisteddfod (August 1 - 8)
Check out the concerts, comedy and competitions at the largest and oldest celebration of Welsh culture dating from 1176.

Brecon Jazz Festival (August 7 - 9)
If you love Jazz this is the place to be to choose from 25 different concerts.

Bryn Terfel Faenol Festival (Faenol Estate, August 28 - 31)
Will host three star-studded concerts with the mountains of Snowdonia as their backdrop.

The World Bog Snorkelling Championship (August 31)
UK's smallest town - Llanwrtyd Wells in Mid Wales puts its name on the map by handing out PDAs and iPods to the person that braves the bog for the longest, with only a snorkel to aid you in your quest.  

LoAnn Loves….Staycations

Story and photos by LoAnn Halden

Why is it that when houseguests show up, you suddenly think up a long list of interesting things to explore in your hometown, but when you're flying solo, there's never anything to do? Admittedly I've had to retrain my brain, but I'm trying to embrace the Staycation concept in the interest of bank account preservation. Plus, it reminds me that there's a reason so many travelers pick Florida as a destination.

Recently, I've pedaled the 15-mile bike loop at Shark Valley in Everglades National Park, where my alligator head count collapsed after the two-dozen mark; snacked on guava pastries and heart-jolting Cuban coffee on Calle Ocho in Miami's Little Havana; and sampled wine made from passion fruit, starfruit  and mango at the southernmost winery in the United States (in Miami's Redlands, near Homestead). None of the spots took more than 90 minutes to reach from my house in Fort Lauderdale, yet somehow I managed to go to gay bar Georgie's Alibi 4,732 times before noticing that I was in a rut.

Still on the to-do list: An overnight canoe trip in the 10,000 Islands of southwestern Florida and snorkeling with manatees in Crystal River, north of Tampa. Oh, and a visit to the Coral Castle, a wacky Miami tourist stop dedicated to a pyramids-style building mystery: a 100-pound man, without any outside help or machinery, constructed this homage to his lost love out of more than 1,100 tons of coral rock. Sounds weirdly awesome to me.

What's worth checking out in your backyard? Post your own Staycation stories here or send them to loann@outtraveler.com. And if you've discovered something great in the Sunshine State, be sure to let me know!

LoAnn Halden is a contributing editor to OutTraveler.com. Check back often for more dispatches on her travel "loves."

48 Ways to Reboot Your Life

Our sister publication, Out magazine, has this great story in their current June/July issue and it's just been published online as a nifty slideshow!

Of these 48 Way to Reboot Your Life, my favs are the "dip and dunk" hot air balloon ride, Hot Nude Yoga, a shopping spree in Buenos Aires, and camping on the Dry Tortugas.

48 is a lot of re-booting already, but if we've missed a great trip, let us know here or leave a comment below!

Correspondents: New Paris Guide

Images in Order: (1) Courtesy of Skopik, (2) by Djampa, (3) by Tim Schapker, (4) by Joseph Alexiou
Story by Bryan Pirolli

Forget your typical Paris travel guide's six-to-eight pages devoted to gay life. Led by gay mayor Bertrand Delanoë, the City of Light has recently approved a new comprehensive LGBT Paris guide, called Skopik, published by Blue Savanah. Following London in its issuing a city-approved guide, this completely free pamphlet just hit the streets and can be found in bars, tourist offices, and the LGBT center.  While Paris has long been been gay-friendly, the mayor’s stamp of approval on the cover of this guide is like a lover’s embrace.

Best of all, its completely bilingual.

Most of the rags or guides available in bars are little more than listings of sex bars and saunas, and only in French. Compared to Rue du Marais, the previous "official guide," Skopik has lengthy lists of hotspots arranged by arrondissement—but still has the  sexy advertisements, in case you were worried. Additionally each map is loaded with icons for museums, bus stops, shopping, hotels, sex shops, wireless internet access points, tourist offices, health centers, and even cruising spots. There is also a how-to on the Vélib public biking system with rental locations scattered across each map. And every single item, where it isn’t clear, is written in French and English. 

Situated right above the list of sex clubs are a list of health and HIV centers for testing and other sexual health issues.   If you still haven’t had enough of Paris, there is a section about various parties and festivals of interest for gay visitors.  Above all, the guide proves potentially useful for all travelers since it includes phone numbers for practical information like trains, airports, and taxis.

A veritable key to Paris while also unlocking the gay scene, Skopik can be found all over the city, but especially in gay throughout Paris, a certainly within the Marais. Look for the next edition in June during the pride festivities.

Bryan Pirolli is part of Out Traveler's international team of Correspondents, reporting from around the world on items of LGBT travel interest. If you would like to become a Correspondent, e-mail us here after checking out our guidelines.