Sunny, summery Helsinki

Story and photos by Nikko Lencek-Inagaki

Although Helsinki's weekend gay nightlife might keep you up (and sleeping in) late, the days in between can afford a useful opportunity for sight-seeing and sampling the amazing restaurants that have popped up in the last few years.

The best way to spend a morning is at the open-air produce, knick-knack, flower and antique markets. They're impromptu, weather-dependant affairs but thankfully dependable if you have a clear-skied day to bring the local farmers, fishermen and attic-cleaners out in force.

Just west of the Design District, at the end of Boulevardi street, you can unearth occasional gems at the lively, ragtag flea market known as Hietalahti. The main show, though, is the adjacent indoor antique market where you can pick up anything from a 19th century English birdcage to vintage Iittala glassware.

 Nearby, No. 9 is a relaxing gay-friendly café that serves a popular, tasty lunch. The Atkins salad is recommended, but make sure you want a whole steak with your greens.

Catering more to souvenir needs is Kauppatori market, located at the small harbor at the end of the Esplanade. Weekends are packed with stalls, but you'll find deliciously fresh seasonal produce, local fish and a variety of kitschy Lapland Reindeer-based handicrafts every day.

From Kauppatori, it's easy to take an afternoon trip to Suomenlinna, a small UNESCO heritage-classified island 15 minutes from the market by hourly ferries. This hilly former fortress has plenty of history -- some Finnish, some Swedish, some Russian -- but its chief appeal is picnic-ing amid grassy knolls and sea breezes. Cafés dot Suomenlinna, in case you don't port around lunch yourself, and there's a cute shop selling works by the Finnish artists who inhabit it if you need a souvenir.

Back on the mainland, don’t miss Kiasma, Helsinki's Museum of Contemporary Art. The institution's  stunning permanent collection of Scandinavian and Nordic artists is full of clever, often funny and surprisingly edgy work -- like this neon, flaccid Darth Vader.

To 'finnish' -- pun! -- off the day, I recommend Juuri, a five-year old restaurant run by two women chefs who are as warm with their patrons as they are talented in their profession. Mid-range by price thanks to their stellar seasonal 'Sapas' or tapas menu, Juury is decidedly top tier by taste.

Modern riffs on traditional Finnish cuisines combined with intimate, unpretentious décor make Juuri popular with small dinner parties and dates alike. Dress decently, make a reservation and take the chefs' recommendations -- it's a dinner you won't regret.

Nikko will be reporting from his travels in Helsinki, Stockholm, Paris and Berlin this month. If you have a tip on a new place he should visit, e-mail him here.

The Taste of Oahu

Story by Aefa Mulholland.

I went to Oahu for the first time last year and was amazed by the flavors of the 600-square mile island. I still dream about the fiery taste of volcano shrimp fresh from shrimp ponds on the North Shore. Of the lavender-imbued mojitos at Sheraton Waikiki’s RumFire lounge. Of breakfasts of macadamia nuts and fresh mango juice.

These days I’m not the only one taking notice of Oahu’s incredible tastes. The farm-to-table movement is growing at a pace and local products star on menus of Oahu restaurants. If you’re heading to “The Gathering Place,” schedule some time to visit the places those tasty plates come from, stock up in markets, and look for local delights in each dinner you devour.

What: Aloun Farms’ Asian vegetables, green onion, herbs, Sunburst Melons, and Thai Watermelon. 

Where: Chef Chai Chaowasaree incorporates Aloun products into his menus at Chai’s Island Bistro and Singha Thai Cuisine.

What: Ho Farms’ food safety certified specialty tomatoes, including baby Roma, cherry, golden grape, grape, Kahuku golden, and zebra varieties, all vine-ripened and individually handpicked at their peak flavor.

Where: Farmers’ markets island-wide and RumFire at Sheraton Waikiki.

What: MA’O’s “Sassy” salad mix—a combination of kale, Swiss chard and cilantro—plus herbs, root vegetables, bananas, mangos, Meyer lemons, Tahitian limes, and Clementine tangerines.

Where: Farmers’ markets island-wide and restaurants such as Alan Wong’s, Azul at the JW Marriott Ihilani, Chef Ed Kenney’s Town and Downtown, Kona Brewing Company, Nobu Waikiki, and Tiki’s Grill and Bar. 

What: North Shore Cattle Company’s 100 percent Hawaii grass-fed, antibiotic and hormone-free Angus beef. 

Where: Paniolo Grill at Coral Creek, the Dole Plantation’s burger stand, and restaurants throughout Oahu including Alan Wong’s, The Pineapple Room, Ola at Turtle Bay Resort, Top of Waikiki, Kona Brewing Company.

Get Your Glutton On! Alison Nelson’s Chocolate Bar

Story and Photos by Nif Leder

Sugar, spice and everything nice: It’s what New York City is made of this summer.

For six delicious years, chocoholics and West Villagers in need of caffeine and cacao fixes inevitably found themselves at Alison Nelson's Chocolate Bar. Now, after a woeful year of being closed, loyal lovers have traced the scent across the street to find the same great service -- the Chocolate Bar is back!

Nestled between Jane and West 12th streets on 8th avenue, Alison Nelson’s Chocolate Bar is again a must stop for any sweet tooth.

Still providing upscale, unique products at a surprisingly decent price, devotees benefit both from the natural chemicals found in the chocolate and from the refreshing lack of attitude that often comes with selling top-shelf chocolate.

The clientele may range up to celebrities like Sarah Jessica Parker, but Nelson and her staff stay focused on cacao content and keep the charm of a small, neighborhood business intact. Their friendly, fast and efficient service makes for an excellent morning pick me up spot with no worries of making it to work on time because of a line. Customers come in and out as quickly as the baristas recall their orders, even from years ago.

"Nobody ever walks into a chocolate shop pissed off,” said veteran barista Nora, “and being able to help and put chocolate in their mouths is a beautiful thing.”

 A few faves from our recent visit:

Salty dark chocolate pretzel bar $3.50
Chocolate caramel popcorn clusters $8.50
Liquid chocolate (their signature iced hot chocolate) $5.00
Black coconut iced tea $3.00
Brandy-infused truffles (another Chocolate Bar special!) $1.50

For a no-jitters day-starter, we've come to love the spicy hot chocolate stirred up with chili and cinnamon. The thing that keeps us up late at night, though, is Chef Gustaf Mabrouk's home-made Malomars (regular, mocha, and raspberry), nicknamed "bowlers" because they look like hats. These, thankfully, can be ordered by the box.

If you’re off on the runway or road this summer, check out the Chocolate Bar's other stores in Long Beach Island, New Jersey and Dubai -- yes, Dubai -- or treat yourself online!

Nightlife Nip and Tuck in the Castro

Photo courtesy Nicolas Massé (CC)
Story by David Froehlich

Even though San Francisco has been statistically ranked the gayest city in the world, there were times that the nightlife was not reminiscent of that title until recently. With the opening of a handful new bars, establishment name changes, new owners and an assortment of new parties, San Francisco finally has something to call home about.

To start of in the epicenter, The Bar on Castro closed, moved and Q Bar reemerged with some new nightly parties featuring all the same friendly faces from behind the bar. Get your indie dance or rock jams on at Wanted on Monday nights or hang out with the girls on Tuesday’s for ladies night. Booty Call, with drag legend Juanita MORE! is on Wednesday nights and offers the best mid-week party in the city. Stop by and have your portrait taken in the back room with the weekly rotating art installation backdrops or watch the go-go boys, girls and trannies shake it like there is no going to work on Thursday.

Another newbie on the block is Toad Hall. The may be from the Harvey Milk days but the opening of this new bar where The Pendulum used to be has a new look and spacious dance floor, bar area and covered back patio in the back to mingle. A good choice when Badlands across the street is too crowded and they still offer a 2 for 1 happy hour special on drinks until 8:30pm.

Opening this summer in the old Expansion space on Market Street is the anticipated Blackbird Bar that will feature local artisanal craft beers and wines by the glass in a comfortable neighborhood bar setting. This might be old news for some, but The Metro bar overlooking Market Street became The Lookout awhile back and the deeply missed Transfer bar has now reopened as The BOC (Bar on Church) with a new look and some new weekly parties to satisfy someone.

Last but not least, the matchbook sized Men’s Room became The Last Call and can be a great stopping off point on your walk home. With the all the new comers in the Castro, lets not forget about the old bars that kept us hydrated on those cold foggy nights. So enjoy them while they last, for the new places may be fun and exciting now but our old familiar bars will always be there for us when the newness wears off.

 David Froehlich is part of Out Traveler.com's international team of Correspondents, reporting from around the world on items of LGBT travel interest. If you would like to become a Correspondent, e-mail us here after checking out our guidelines.

French Tapas: We Dish about Bar Artisanal's Petits plats

Story by Ed Salvato and James Wang; images courtesy of Artisanal

Celebrity chef, Terrance Brennan, (below right) has done it again with the April '09 opening of his  chic French restaurant, Bar Artisanal in New York's trendy Tribeca neighborhood. Conveniently located at the intersection of West Broadway and 6th Ave, just south of Canal St, (located at an A, C, E subway station), the prime location gives French food and wine connoisseurs a break, if the commute to Paris is too much of a hassle.

The gay-popular bar and restaurant has already received rave reviews from local press, including  the New York Times and Time Out New York, noting that the “shareable nibbles are what this place is about.” The value-oriented menu, with no dish over $20, offers a variety of authentic French small plates and entrees ranging from pizza-like pissaladieres for sharing to lamb burgers and duck gizzard confit, as well as an extensive list of special cocktails, scrumptious desserts, and an assortment of fine wine and cheese platters, which are also available when the restaurant is open late night. This is a great place for lunch, dinner or just drinks and some small plates.

The restaurant's tall ceilings and huge windows help the space to transition from fun French Bistro to romantic evening spot as the lighting changes. We like this spot for a solo lunch, business meeting or for a romantic evening dinner.

Details
Bar Artisanal
268 W. Broadway @ 6th Avenue, 1 Block South of Canal St.
New York, NY
212-925-1600
http://www.barartisanal.com/location.php
Price Range:
Small Plates: $10-20
Entrees: $10-20

Value Watch: Twin Farms, Vermont

Photos courtesy of Twin Farms
Story by Olga Bas

Twin Farms, a country estate spanning over 300 acres of green meadows in Barnard, Vermont, is celebrating the changing seasons with a Spring into Summer promotion. When you book two nights, the third night is free. Only have time for a one or two-night getaway? Then opt for a complimentary one-hour in-room massage or spa service each day instead. The promotion runs through September 12 and includes weekends.

The property's late 18th-century farmhouse and lodge is converted into six elegant guest suites  ($1,300-1,500 based on double occupancy) plus a living room and dining room, and ten guest cottages ($2,000-3,000 based on double occupancy) dot the grounds. Rates include four meals a day and complimentary wine -- the Twin Farms cellar is stocked with 26,000 bottles of French and California vintages. Guests also have access to a pub, fitness center, spa treatment facility, lakeside cabana, and a Japanese-style sunken tub.

During the summer, activities range from hiking, biking, fly-fishing, and picnicking to canoeing, tennis, swimming, and croquet. In the winter, skiing, snowshoe hikes, sleigh rides, and ice skating keep guests active. The property is also available to rent for weddings, civil unions, and vow-renewal ceremonies.

Travel tip: If you're traveling with a tour, be sure to get the guide's cell phone number in case you get separated from the group and need to contact him or her.

Vermont Slideshow

Recently, one of Out Traveler's own took a trip to the beautiful countryside surrounding Burlington, VT. Strikingly beautiful, Vermont is unique in that despite its farm-country appeal (and the freshness of its food), it's also extremely gay friendly, to the point that folks can barely distinguish between gay and straight couples.

A great place to get married, or go on a honeymoon, the Burlington area is a font of culture, with art exhibitions and plenty of adorable New England towns to explore—and maple candy to sample. It's also home to dozens of gay-owned or friendly B&Bs; there's great hiking, country estates, beautiful waterfalls, sugar shacks, and gourmet restaurants—including possibly some of the best haute cuisine, gay-owned, home-smoked barbecue ever invented!

Check it out in our nifty slideshow and look out for the full story to come out soon!

Photos by Joseph Alexiou

Peru: Rainbows, Rainbows Everywhere…

Story by Amita Parashar. Photo credits in photo notes.

The rainbow flags may be out in full force, but this land is far from Santa Monica Blvd. Gayness is mostly under the radar in Peru -- the bright flags are actually a nod to the Incan empire -- but the cute surfer girls and real rainbows couldn’t help but turn my vacation a little bit gay.

Lima: Spend your time in the Miraflores and Barranco districts, two relaxed, artsy beach towns. Admire hot surfer boys and girls along the water, then visit Dédalo (e-mail dedalo@speedy.com.pe), a shop/café that sells blown glass and silver jewelry handcrafted by local artists. For more traditional Peruvian kitsch, check out the Inca Market in Miraflores. At night, we hit local watering hole El Tayta, for cheap beer and freshly roasted cancha (Peruvian corn nuts). The bar boasts a good mix of Peruvians and foreigners, plus an incredibly cute girl-with-guitar singer who covered everyone from Colbie Caillat to Alanis.

Machu Picchu: Although it’ll take you a plane, train, bus and handful of altitude sickness pills to get there, you must visit Machu Picchu. You’ll forget the pain-in-the-ass journey when you reach breathtaking views of the Sacred Valley and walk among the ruins from the last seat of the Incan empire. You’ll be dreaming about this place for days. For a romantic date after the exhausting journey, eat at open-air Pacha Papa in Cusco for Peruvian and fusion fare. While in Cusco, stay at Niños Hotel, all the profits provide daily food and support to over 500 kids in the area. Plus, they have plenty of coca leaf tea to help with the altitude adjustment.

Paracas: A four hour luxury bus ride (yes, actually luxury) south from Lima will land you in Paracas. Take a 30 minute boat ride to the biodiverse Ballestas Islands, home to penguins and sea lions. While in Paracas, try the Chita Frita, fried whole fish. For the athletically-inclined (or just daring), head to nearby Huacachina to sandboard down 300 foot dunes. For more highly-spirited travelers, Paracas is also a great place to tour wine and pisco vineyards.

Visit Flanders. Now!

Story and photos by Ed Salvato, editor in chief, OutTraveler.com

I just returned from a all-too-quick visit to Flanders, the northern (Flemish) part of Belgium that includes Brussels, Antwerp, Ghent and Bruges and where inhabitants primarily speak Flemish (nearly identical to Dutch), French and English. The other (southern) part of Belgium, known as Walloon, is primarily French speaking. It's a small country, roughly the size of Maryland, and easily and quickly traversed by train.

That the entire country is gay friendly seems unnecessary to say. Belgium became the second country in the world to allow same-sex marriages in 2003 (after the Netherlands), and lesbian and gay couples have all the same rights as heterosexual ones, including recently adoption. The community is almost entirely integrated into the fabric of society, including the military and other civic institutions. Notably, Antwerp's widely respected chief of police, Serge Muyters, is legally married to his husband, another high ranking police officer.

While Brussels is the largest, most bustling city in Belgium and serves as an important capital and crossroads, the more intriguing and truly Flemish destinations Antwerp, Ghent and Bruges provide visitors with a real feel for this welcoming, historically rich culture. My adventure began at 31,000 feet: Since my trip was so short, I decided to upgrade to Out Traveler Readers' Choice award winner American Airlines Business Class, which allowed me to 1) enjoy the very guilty pleasure of warm nuts (mind out of the gutter, please!) and homemade chocolate chip cookies; and 2) meet Amer Delic, my seat mate -- a very frequent traveler (thanks to a grueling year-round tournament circuit) and a handsome -- alas, straight -- top-seeded international tennis pro.

Brussels airport is small (relative to JKF anyway) and easy to get in and out of. Once you land and pass quickly through customs, you can take a train to reach most of the country via the train system's super-convenient airport stop. First stop, Antwerp.

Antwerp is a friendly, low-key destination that is very well known for its stunning array of architectural marvels, its cutting-edge fashion scene and its lucrative diamond trade. It also boasts a rich culinary scene, delicious beers and a very friendly gay scene. Centraal Station, left, the main train hub is a beautiful first point of entry to the city and makes a great first stop on any architectural tour.

I checked into the very centrally located 't Sandt Hotel where I reserved the Cathedral Suite, with stunning city views, including the Cathedral of our Lady. When completed in 1521, it was the tallest structure in the Low Countries (approximately 350 feet). It boasts two important paintings by Rubens. (The photo of the cathedral, right, was taken from my hotel.) Stop off at gay-owned, gay-popular Popi Cafe for a drink, coffee or light bite and possibly to meet some friendly locals. Saturday nights everyone gathers at Red and Blue dance club (owned by the same proprietor as Popi Cafe). Plan a trip during Antwerp Gay Pride, June 25-28

Here are a few more picture to whet your appetite for a visit.

 

The train to Bruges takes a little over an hour. This historic, medieval, seaside city, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the capital and largest city of the province of West Flanders. It enjoyed a robust  economic life based around shipping and commerce from the 1200s to the 1700s or so then went into a quiet period of disuse. Rediscovered by wealthy French (and other) tourists in the 19th century, Bruges began a resurgence based largely on tourism. The good news is the city was never razed for development nor was it bombed extensively in any war. 

A great way to view the city is via the motorized tour boats. There are only 20 or so legally authorized boats allowed to navigate the canal, and it's about $8 per person for a 1/2 hour tour from docks scattered throughout the city. If you are solo this is a great place for a day trip but be sure to bring a good guidebook or hire a guide. My guide, Wim Lybaert (wim.lybaert@woestijnvis.be) was great: friendly, informative and a local who added personal recollection which enhanced the tour. Couples may enjoy the romance of a visit spread over two days.

Final stop: Brussels. This is a teeming city, compared to Bruges or even Antwerp. Conveniently enough the gay section is primarily concentrated in a small section of the city (centered on rue Marche au Charbon) so a visit, even a short one, can include all the key gay bars, cafes and clubs. Best cafes to  start your evening, get your bearings, grab a gay bar map and plot your evening: Fontainas (91 rue Marche au Charbon) or le Plattestteen (41, rue Marche au Charbon; in photo, right). Later after a few Duvels (a local, very potent beer named after Satan himself served in big goblets) take a short walk to Duquesnoy (12, rue Duquesnoy) -- a leather oriented bar that offers an crowded, cruisy downstairs and an upstairs dark area.

Note that Brussels Gay Pride is around the corner: May 16 is the big day.

For more mainstream trip-planning information, visit the official website for Flanders (www.visitflanders.us).

Zürich for Foodies

Photos in order: Sacred Destinations (1); Restaurant Josef (1); Tibits (1); Le Dezaley (1)
Story by Nick Malgieri

Host to this year’s Europride 09 festivities, Zurich is as gay-friendly as a city can be: from leading the charge to legalize same-sex unions nationally in 2005 to Barfuesser, reputed to be the oldest gay bar in Europe, and to the city's openly lesbian Mayor, Corine Mauch, now in office.

Eating in Zurich can be as cheap or expensive as you wish, and -- as with the city's wide range of accommodations -- there are many excellent moderate choices available, too. For a full list see www.zuerich.com, which lists hotels by starred categories, and restaurants by district and style of food. The suggestions below are all personal favorites, gleaned from over 35 years of frequent travel to the city.

Eating Your Way Around Zurich

Swiss food isn’t all cheese and chocolate, but it’s easy to find plenty of both without much effort. Restaurant prices are high by American standards, so I usually limit to one restaurant meal a day and grab lunch or a late dinner on the fly.

Picking up a bratwurst and a big crusty buurli roll at the Horber stand in the Wednesday food market in the main hall of the train station is one of my favorite economical choices. Made from veal or pork, bratwurst and their cousin cervelat (similar to what we would call a knockwurst), are Zurich’s favorite quick lunch. Buurli and mustard are included in the price, usually around CHF6., so just help yourself to both.

Other places for a good wurst are the street-side stand just north of the corner of Niederdorfstrasse and Muehlegasse, and another classic, Fordere Sternen, a tented courtyard at Theaterstrasse 22, right across from the big Bellevueplatz tram stop. Migros, the Swiss hypermarket, has a small food store (lower level) and self-service restaurant above at the corner of Niederdorfstrasse and Muehlegasse. There are prepared salads, sandwiches, pastries both savory and sweet, a variety of soft drinks and beer, plus pizza and a few hot dishes dispensed from the main counter. A Migros meal with a drink will cost around CHF20.

A step up from a wurst or sandwich is the Globus Takeaway on the ground floor of the department store of the same name at Theaterstrasse 12. You’ll find Asian noodles and curries, a counter of antipasti and panini, a sushi counter, and an espresso bar that also serves desserts.  Every counter dispenses all the drinks available.

Tibits, a slick vegetarian self-service at Seefeldstrasse 2, just a few minutes’ walk from Globus, features an enormous salad bar, a large variety of breads, several hot dishes, plus drinks and an espresso counter.

In the main train station the Brasserie Federal offers traditional Swiss food such as aelplermagronen (Swiss mac and cheese), fleischkaese (like a meatloaf, but made with a meat mixture similar to the inside of a wurst), and both appetizer and main course salads galore. Over 100 Swiss beers are on the list. Service is brisk and efficient and service charges are included in the price of the menu items, though it’s customary to leave a couple of francs as a tip.