New Zealand: Photo Gallery

Captions and photos by Jeffrey James

Above: I took this shot on Mt. Coronet during this year's Gay Ski Week NZ in Queenstown.  Mike Sanford and Craig Lawson host the biggest gay and lesbian alpine party in the southern hemisphere, and queer ski bunnies take over the town and mountains all week. When sun sets, the party moves to the newly renovated Novotel Queenstown Lakeside Hotel for happy hour "Fag Tag" cocktails and warm spirits. 

I took a week touring New Zealand before hitting the slopes.  My first big stop was in Wellington, New Zealand's capital city.  I took this shot down by the Wellington Waterfront on my way to the famous Te Papa Tongarewa Museum.  

My next stop was in Nelson, down on the south island.  I met up with artist Anna Leary on a wine and art tour and she and Noel Kennedy gave me the grand tour of her artwork, the countryside, and a taste of Patrick Stowe's unbelievable Pinot Noir at Rimu Grove Winery.

I woke up my second morning in Nelson at couple Richard Hewetson and James Taylor's Te Puna Wai bed and breakfast with the best view in town.  James and Richard are my favorite couple in New Zealand, so sweet and welcoming, their Te Puna Wai is the perfect place to stay. I didn't know much about Nelson prior to my arrival and was delighted to find it the perfect place to relax, visit artist's homes and enjoy great local wine. 

I couldn't have had a better host with Wilsons while exploring the Abel Tasman National Park.  Craig Wilson is a local celebrity and former chef of Pavarotti and Paul McCartney.  Craig and I took the Vista to the middle of the park and hiked for a few hours before enjoying an amazing homemade lunch on the cruise back .

I met up with Sofia Minson on a private tour with Melissa Crockett with Potiki Adventures in Auckland.  Sofia is an incredible painter celebrating people, culture, and nature.  She made me some banana bread and we hung out for an afternoon as she showed me some of her new work and shared stories of her Maori heritage.  

I have to admit, I'm a big Lord of the Rings nerd.  Every place you go in New Zealand will boast their connection to Peter Jackson's infamous trilogy.  I opted for the ultimate chance to experience the films first hand on the Flat Earth New Zealand Experiences Tour in Wellington.  This picture was taken in the Shire, just down from the summit of Mount Victoria where Jackson filmed scenes of Buckland Forest.  I didn't run into any hobbits, but got my Lord of the Rings fix and plenty of pictures to bring home. 

On my last night in Queenstown  I had an amazing dinner at Fishbone Bar & Grill with owners Mark Godden and Darren Lovell and was able to catch the sunset over Lake Wakatipu.  With the Remarkables on the left and the TSS Earnslaw ship on the right, the view from town is the best spot to watch night fall on New Zealand.  New Zealand is a magical country full of adventure, breathtaking views and friendly people. 

Stockholm, Sweden: Photo Gallery

Story and photos by Jeffrey James Keyes

Above: Hey Mr. DJ StockholmThere's a reason Stockholm's Group F12 was awarded a Michelin-Star with flying colors. You can sit outside and listen to your favorite Scandinavian DJs, take in the full gastronomic experience of celebrity chef duo Danyel Couet and Paul Svensson, or head up to the terrace club and feel the body and soul of the Viking next to you.  This is Stockholm at its best. 

Stockholm 3AM
Head to the Patricia on Sunday night for the best gay club in Stockholm.  Head to the roof for the best crowd and a gorgeous view.  I stepped off the ship around 3AM and started to head back to the Hilton Stockholm Slussen and was surprised the sun was already rising.  By the time I reached the Hilton I was surprised with what I saw: the lobby had turned into yet another club.  Paris would be happy to know this was the place to be.  I had a nightcap and momentarily had a flashback to New York's Body and Soul in the late 90's.  

Millesgården
A visit to the Millesgården is an experience like no other.  Walk through the terraces, fountains, columns, and sculptures created by the master himself.  Carl Milles had the most spectacular view of the Värtan waters, and you can catch a RIB boat to explore the archipelago just steps away from the artist's house.  The staff at the Millesgården is extremely accommodating and hysterically funny.  I could have spent the whole day trading stories and enjoying the landscape and artwork. 

Drottningholm Palace 
I took a the steamer boat out to the Swedish Royal Family's summer residence.  On my arrival, I got a first-rate view of the Drottningholm Palace and spent the day exploring the baroque park surrounding this stunning masterpiece.  From the chinese Pavilion to the world-famous theater, it's obvious why this palace is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Eat your heart out, Versailles! 

Libra
It doesn't get much gayer then Stockholm on a Saturday night.  You can hop from bar to bar and the night (and music) gets better the later you stay out.  Libra is a good place to go when you just need to dance. Take a liking to a Viking, on the dance floor. 

Copenhagen, Denmark: Photo Gallery

Photos and story by Jeffrey James Keyes

Above: Rosenborg Soldier - Copenhagen, Denmark
What's better than day dreaming about the Crown Jewels at the Rosenborg Castle? Day dreaming about the sexy men who guard them, of course!  Denmark has some of the most attractive soldiers in the world.  I caught this one "off guard" by snapping a few pictures of him.  He tried to hide behind his gun but I still found him.

Tivoli at Dusk - Copenhagen, Denmark: 
Copenhagen's pristine Tivoli Gardens opened in 1843 and is the best place in town to kick back and relax. The park is fun by day, everything becomes magical at dusk when the sky gets dark and festive lights illuminate the rides and games.  I had a lovely dinner with some friends at the Divan 2 Restaurant in the park and they all went off to the Oscar Bar for drinks but I stayed in the park snapping pictures of everything at night.  

Kings Square - Copenhagen, Denmark: 
The luxurious Hotel D'Angleterre overlooks the bustling King's Square in the middle of Copenhagen.  Just around the corner you will find some of the best shopping in Europe.  Shops like Magasin du Nord and Illums Bolighus will give you a crash course in Danish design and nudge you to come back with a new sense of style.  

Copenhagen View - Copenhagen, Denmark: 
Views are easy to come by in Copenhagen with it's red rooftops and canals reaching out into the Øresund.  If you have some extra time, be sure to take a Canal Tour so you can see the city from every angle. Or, just sit back in a cafe with a Carlsberg and watch the city unfold before you.  

  Øresund Bridge - Malmö, Sweden: 
I took this picture just over the  Øresund Bridge  in  Malmö, Sweden.  You can sit outside in front of the healthy Salt & Brygga restaurant and watch modern-day Vikings park their bikes and watch the sunset over the Bridge. 

Bali, Indonesia: Photo gallery

Photos and captions by correspondent Sydney Pfaff.

Above: On the western side of the Bukit Peninsula, Balangan Beach sits quietly surrounded by cliffs with just a few bungalows, a couple of small restaurants, and a handful of warungs.

Loud and crowded with tourists (specifically loads of Aussies), Kuta Beach is a very active surf spot. One of the most famous spots in Bali, this alley separates some of the most dense streets in Kuta, not far from the popular gay clubs and nightlife haunts of Seminyak.  

Away from the coast and surrounded by rice paddies, Ubud is a peaceful area of Bali once you leave the town center. There are a handful of bungalows situated right in the middle of some of the paddies, just like this one here. 

With some of the most gorgeous (and green) pathways in Bali, Ubud is known for its traditional Balinese culture -- and known to many as "the real Bali" due to the strong presence of ancient arts and religious temples.

On the southern most tip of the Bukit, between the cliffs of Uluwatu, surfers flawk here for one of the most popular surfbreaks in Bali. Home to the one of the most spectacular temples in Bali, Uluwatu is home to many high-end villas and beautiful cliffside views (and sneaky monkey thieves ready to pick your pockets).

RSVP's Alaskan Adventure: Days 5 - 7

Story and video by Michael Anthony; Photos in order: Michael Anthony (3); Getty (1)

If the ship is a-rockin'…get those anti-nausea pills ready!

Yes, on the 5th official day of RSVP's Alaskan cruise (from which I've been reporting) we awoke to hurricane force winds. Standing on our balcony, holding on for near-dear life, we watched as the captain tried to tender in (or pull into harbor, in landlubber-language). Literally 4 attempts ensued before the commander made an announcement: "I regret to inform you that we will not be docking in Sitka. Instead, you will be enjoying another day at sea."

On one hand, this was disappointing. Sitka is a cultural city that my world traveler friends have told me is definitely worth seeing; it's a rural yet refined collective with heavy native and Russian influences. But, at 60-knots, docking was out of the question. So enjoy the boat, we did!

Even five days in, it's shocking how many things were yet to be discovered on this 12-story ship. Aunt Ros spent the entire day in the "Crow's Nest" library, grilling the on-staff Alaskan expert about everything and anything wilderness-related. Helen and the Uncles took to the ship's culinary school -- culinary school! David, as he usually does, ran off to the gym and spa for some mind, body and soul respite. I jumped in on my first-ever slots tournament. (Second place ain’t bad for an amateur, now is it?)

At night, the cruise ship party scene commenced. Unlike other gay cruise lines, RSVP has those gay good-time vibes rather than that "party atmosphere" that many LGBTQ travelers would prefer to avoid when relaxing. There are parties nightly (like Day Five’s "leather-themed bonanza"), but this Alaskan Adventure boasted all of the fun with none of the attitude; even the great-aunts took to the dance floor and had a blast.

Day Six brought us to Ketchikan, a small Alaskan port town. While the uncles took an historic nature walk and Helen went off to perform in a Native tribe dancing ritual, David and I sated our inner-adventure

seekers and spent the afternoon zip-lining through the city’s rainforest (the second biggest in the world, only second to the Amazon). What can I say about taking a 400 foot nosedive through the misty woodland with nothing more than a mere rope harness as your savior? Priceless!

The evening of Day Seven dropped us off in the heart of Victoria, British Columbia, Canada. We arrived by bus to the world-famous Butchart Gardens just in time for a fireworks spectacular for which clearly no expense was spared.

We also got a quick tour of the Gardens themselves before being bustled back to the Westerdam. Now I’m not a big "flower and fountain guy," but something about outdoor floral design done right really makes a man appreciate the world around him; it was absolutely stunning, whether you’re a "stop and smell the roses" kind of traveler or not.

Of course, David and I rocked out the night as hard as we could; refusing to admit that our vaca-y had come to an end. The verdict? From 28-to-70-some-years-old, each and every one of us enjoyed a five-star time. It's hard not to enjoy any openly-gay cruise, but when it’s done in a setting as beautiful as the picturesque Alaskan coastline, it's truly memorable. An expensive memory, yes, but worth every pretty penny.

Writer Michael Anthony, contributing from aboard RSVP's Alaskan cruise

RSVP's Alaskan Adventure: Days 3 + 4

Story and video by Michael Anthony. Images in order: Getty; Michael Anthony; Getty

Although Day Three of RSVP's Alaskan Adventure cruise was technically a "day at sea," we sailed through the indescribably beautiful Glacier Bay and tendered for a bit.

Here, we saw our first glacier of the trip (and of my entire life!), a family of passing whales (who followed alongside our ship and surfaced no less than a dozen times) and miles of gorgeous, untouched-by-man shoreline.

Aunt Ros and Uncle Bill had a field day, snapping picture after picture. Seeing sights like this in movies, on nature flip calendars and in National Geographic specials can be desensitizing, but actually beholding beauty like this in real life is in its own category entirely.

On this cruise, which I’ve never experienced on any other cruise before, they tugboat in resident experts and naturalists to discuss the culture and lay of the land as we pass it. Today’s speaker was Alaska’s one and only gay park ranger; Aunt Helen twisted my arm into attending the lecture, and I’m so glad that I tagged along.

Not only did he give the standard "that’s a glacier, over there is a mountain goat" speech, but he discussed the trials and tribulations of finding success and happiness in such a (stereotypically) hetero-centric environment. It was pretty moving and definitely inspiring.

Day Four took us to Juneau, Alaska's capital (interesting fact: the city is only accessible via passenger plane and boat; not a single road is paved in or out). We spent the first half of the day shopping at the local port: trinkets, furs, Russian cultural items (surprisingly frequent here) and jewelry native to the area.

But the best part of our capital visit (and of the trip to date!) was the one-hour helicopter flight that the 'family' and I took through the local wilderness. (See the clip above for a taste of the majestic beauty that we encountered.) Bears, flora and fauna abounded, as well as glaciers (one which is near the size of Rhode Island at times of the year).

Our pilot, a rough and tumble yet strikingly beautiful local woman, even maneuvered a touch-down on a remote glacier; for nearly 20 minutes, we got to hike and trek around the area, harsh and uninhabitable yet entrancing. The tour cost us well over $500 for four, but was well, well worth it.

Tomorrow, onto the city of Sitka, with a slew of other RSVP-promised surprises in store.

Writer Michael Anthony, contributing from aboard RSVP's Alaskan cruise

RSVP's Alaskan Adventure: Days 1 + 2

Story and media by Michael Anthony

Planning the perfect 'family' getaway is tricky. Everyone wants to escape, but no two can agree on how to do it: beaching in Tahiti? Bar-hopping in San Francisco? Hiking the Appalachian Trail?

Sticking the whole gay 'family' on RSVP's cruise to Alaska, then, begs some questions.

Perhaps it’s just my ever-growing “bear-ness” -- the desire to literally let the hair on my chest grow and actually keep my shirt on for an entire vaca-y -- or the need for a respite that’s a little less party enthused and a lot more R&R. L.A. (my home) isn’t great for R&R, but there are few more relaxing and spectacularly beautiful places than Alaska.

RSVP's Alaskan Adventure is also surprisingly all-too fitting for my 28-through-79-year-old ragtag collective -- my boyfriend and I, together for 6 years and gay as the day is long; my Uncle Bill and his partner of 24 years, Steve; and "Aunt Ros" and the love of her life, Helen, happily partnered for 40 “wonderful, just wonderful” years. With a 2,000-ish person capacity, the cruise offers something for everyone and it's decidedly lions, tigers, bears, oh-my guests was a welcome change from the West Hollywood twink set.

Days One and Two at sea gave the fam and I time to explore; and explore, we did! While my partner and I sauntered about with the "been-there, cruised-this, enjoyed-that" ease of cruise veterans, our accompanying gaggle of first-timers stumbled about with awe in their eyes. The Westerdam (part of the Holland America fleet) may not be the largest ship on the sea -- a 2,000 capacity is still plenty -- but it has everything a traveler needs.

There’s a full gym with free weights, cardio machines, spin classes and even free lectures. The award-winning spa is on hand -- which I tried within a few hours of boarding -- has a hot stone massage to rival any treatments I’ve experienced in LA.

There are also two pools (indoor and out), a casino, art gallery, live-stage theatre (shows every night) and (of course, my favorite haunt) a buffet! Every amenity is well-staffed and top-notch.

On this afternoon’s agenda? Culinary school begins in 20-minutes, my acupuncture awaits afterward, and the pool deck BBQ starts at five. It's only been two days, but we’ve all already taken to the Westerdam, eager for each new event and excited for our first soon-to-see visual tomorrow afternoon: the Glacier Bay shoreline.

Writer Michael Anthony, contributing from aboard RSVP's Alaskan cruise

Correspondents: Shanghai Shenanigans

Story and Photos by Michael Seibert

Want to see lots of concrete, get lost in a taxi, see elderly men waltzing and ingest more smoke than your eyes or lungs can handle? Visit Shanghai! In early June, Shanghai also celebrated its first Pride event, so there's even a growing gay reason to visit. This Pride was the largest gay and lesbian community event on the Chinese mainland ever. Although it was mildly dampened by police involvement, it is still considered a major success and milestone.

My recent trip started off with a burning desire to witness the Lai Lai Dance Hall (2/F 235 An-guo Road, near Zhou-jia-zui Road; Hong-kou District), which I luckily found with the help of the taxi driver. Once you find the building, you have to dart through a Karaoke Lounge -- there was only one singer who was her own audience at the time -- and up some dingy steps to get to the Dance Hall.

Emerging from the entrance as the only white guy in the place, I found both young and old gay Chinese men waltzing with each other as multi-colored lights flashed out of sync around them. One, almost bouncing through his dance steps, fanned himself and his overly myopic eyeglasses with a fabulous black lace fan.

It was almost like a high school dance, except that the guys only danced to the slow songs -- translating them into waltzes as they went. When any other song came on, they returned to their tables and thermoses of hot tea. at their tables. If you want to witness a different groove, you will love this place. You won't soon forget the smiling faces on these potentially-married, elderly men enjoying themselves for a short 2 hours from 7-9 on a Friday, Saturday or Sunday night with quick 'waltz' with another man.

For a more familiar scene. try Shanghai Studio (1950 Huai-hai Zhong Road, No. 4, near Xing-guo Road; Xu-hui District). But beware, this old bomb shelter is so smoky that your lungs will ache the next day. If you can stand it, they have a 100 RMB all you can drink night on Thursday.

If you're in the area, Eddy’s Bar (1877 Huai-hai Zhong Road, near Tian-ping Road; Xu-hui District) is a must -- better ventilation, small, cozy and great on any night. And if you are a bear, there's a place called Bo Bo’s for you. remember, though, that YOU are a “PANDA” in China. The locals informed me that it is rare to find a "Panda," so you may have to do some hunting if you want your own.

For club dancing with cute boys, visit the popular disco, D2 (505 Zhong Shan Road South, near Fu Xin Road; Huang-pu District), in Pudong on a packed Saturday, but skip Friday.

A short bus ride to Zhujiajiao (make sure to take the fast bus, not the local), the "Chinese Venice," is worth the half-day trip. Sip on some hot tea and shell peanuts along the waterway and then head back to Shanghai for the evening fun.

On a final note, visit The Bund -- the old colonial neighborhood -- in the morning if you can get up really early and watch the women dance with each other with Pudong in the background.

Dr. Michael Seibert is part of Out Traveler.com's international team of Correspondents, reporting from around the world on items of LGBT travel interest. If you would like to become a Correspondent, e-mail us here after checking out our guidelines.

Correspondents: London Curtain Call

Photos in Order (1, 3, 4, and 6) by Tristram Kenton, (2, 5) by Catherine Ashmore,
Story by John Kelly

Frequent travelers to London will already know that this dramatic city always puts on a show, but the capital’s current West End roster of musical premieres, camp classics and British masterpieces means that this summer is a perfect time for theater lovers to make an encore visit.

Sister Act
Has it really been 17 years? Time may have taken its toll on all of us since Sister Act’s 1992 debut (except a seemingly ageless Whoopi Goldberg—divine intervention perhaps?), but the appeal has endured. The recently-premiered stage version of Sister Act sees newcomer Patina Miller play Doloris Van Cartier, the singer who witnesses a murder and is ensconced in a convent as part of a witness protection program. However Whoopi’s absence isn’t the only noticeable divergence from the original production—the musical features an entirely new score composed by eight-time Oscar winner Alan Menken.

Sister Act, London Palladium, June 2 – Feb 12 2010, tickets £17.50 - £60

Priscilla, Queen of the Desert
Just as in the original film version of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert, a giant, spangled stiletto mounted on a bus sets the tone of this camp classic. As with the film, the plot focuses on three flamboyant drag queens who traverse Australia’s arid outback in a battered old bus named Priscilla. Yet it’s the soundtrack and costumes that take center stage—invigorating disco classics such as I Will Survive and the remixed Downtown are delivered with a flourish, while the iridescent cast is bedecked in enough feathers and sequins to elicit admiration from even the most extravagant drag queen in the audience.

Priscilla, Queen of the Desert, Palace Theatre, until 13 Feb 2010, tickets from £20 - £64.25

Hairspray
The John Waters classic has undergone many permutations since it first emerged over 20 years ago, but the tale of ‘pleasantly plump’ Tracy Turnblad still strikes a chord with audiences today. Originally an award winning Broadway production, this story of Tuirnblad's efforts to win acceptance from her slender peers while contesting racial segregation in 1960s Baltimore is now one of the most popular shows playing in the West End.

Hairspray, Shaftesbury Theatre, until April 2010, tickets from £22.50 - £62.50

Hamlet
This devastating tale of murder and vengeance may not hold the same light-hearted appeal as some of the West End’s more carefree productions, but the current interpretation of Shakespeare’s masterpiece is this summer’s must-have ticket of the discerning London theatergoer. The appeal is not just the show’s limited two-month run, or the opportunity to witness a home-turf performance one of the Bard's most defining works: Jude Law fulfills a long-held ambition by taking to the boards as the brooding Danish prince.

Hamlet, Donmar at Wyndham’s Theatre, until 22 August 2009, tickets from £32.95 - £42.75

Fringe Benefits
Even the most ardent theater aficionado will be emotionally—and financially—spent after a vacation on London's West End, but alternatives to big-budget, large-scale productions abound. Local listing-magazines provide comprehensive information on what performances are taking place at any given time. Additionally, two venues frequently showcase gay-interest performance: Rich Mix, a cultural center and performance space, and Bistrotheque, a bar, restaurant and performance space that occasionally hosts ‘bearlesque’-style dance troupes and subversive cabaret acts presided over by legendary London performer Jonny Woo.

John Kelly is part of Out Traveler's international team of Correspondents, reporting from around the world on items of LGBT travel interest. Raised in Ireland and now London-based, Kelly is a freelance travel and lifestyle journalist specializing in European destinations. If you would like to become a Correspondent, e-mail us here after checking out our guidelines.

Correspondents: New Paris Guide

Images in Order: (1) Courtesy of Skopik, (2) by Djampa, (3) by Tim Schapker, (4) by Joseph Alexiou
Story by Bryan Pirolli

Forget your typical Paris travel guide's six-to-eight pages devoted to gay life. Led by gay mayor Bertrand Delanoë, the City of Light has recently approved a new comprehensive LGBT Paris guide, called Skopik, published by Blue Savanah. Following London in its issuing a city-approved guide, this completely free pamphlet just hit the streets and can be found in bars, tourist offices, and the LGBT center.  While Paris has long been been gay-friendly, the mayor’s stamp of approval on the cover of this guide is like a lover’s embrace.

Best of all, its completely bilingual.

Most of the rags or guides available in bars are little more than listings of sex bars and saunas, and only in French. Compared to Rue du Marais, the previous "official guide," Skopik has lengthy lists of hotspots arranged by arrondissement—but still has the  sexy advertisements, in case you were worried. Additionally each map is loaded with icons for museums, bus stops, shopping, hotels, sex shops, wireless internet access points, tourist offices, health centers, and even cruising spots. There is also a how-to on the Vélib public biking system with rental locations scattered across each map. And every single item, where it isn’t clear, is written in French and English. 

Situated right above the list of sex clubs are a list of health and HIV centers for testing and other sexual health issues.   If you still haven’t had enough of Paris, there is a section about various parties and festivals of interest for gay visitors.  Above all, the guide proves potentially useful for all travelers since it includes phone numbers for practical information like trains, airports, and taxis.

A veritable key to Paris while also unlocking the gay scene, Skopik can be found all over the city, but especially in gay throughout Paris, a certainly within the Marais. Look for the next edition in June during the pride festivities.

Bryan Pirolli is part of Out Traveler's international team of Correspondents, reporting from around the world on items of LGBT travel interest. If you would like to become a Correspondent, e-mail us here after checking out our guidelines.